Old Los Angeles

11 Saturday May 2013

Posted by Lisa in Downtown, Places in the City

Despite being a major metropolis, living in Los Angeles usually feels more like living in the suburbs. It’s not like New York where you know you are in the city all the time with giant buildings surrounding you, endless aisles of apartment complexes, street vendors selling food and sirens screaming below your window. Most of us live on tree lines streets with parks and little strip malls close by. Because of this Downtown Los Angeles is really exciting to some of us (like myself). It’s urban, there’s history and you feel like you are actually in a city. Things legitimately look old, kind of European and it’s all squished together, layer upon layer, piled on top of itself the way a real city is.

Downtown is the old Los Angeles, the original Los Angeles, the place where it all began. People came with an excitement to build a new city “out west.” It was beautiful and there were fortunes to be made. The first town square was established in 1866 which was eventually named Pershing Square, a square that sits at the heart of downtown today. Eventually trolley lines and street cars opened to offer public transportation to the growing population. Cathedrals, synagogues, hotels, restaurants and schools were built – USC was established in 1880. Downtown was the place to be. At this point the city wasn’t being built around the car yet but by the 1900’s automobiles were on the streets and the great expansion of the city began, eventually dissolving Downtown as the city’s center.

I like to go down there today and imagine what it was like. The night clubs, the theaters, people dressed up to go out to eat, riding the trolley cars or just walking around. From the pictures it looks like it was a beautiful place. There were lots of trees, fancy hotels, shopping districts, a few lakes to walk around and enjoy. I am not en expert on the history and don’t have all the facts for you. The city leads some historic walking tours of Downtown and once I go on one of those I will surely be inspired to report back. Today Downtown is going through a revival. For many years it was (and still kind of is) run down, dirty and not a very safe place to be. That is changing as the artists and the hipsters are making it a more interesting place to be and a place where businesses can make money again. My hope is that what old buildings can be saved will be saved and it will retain much of its original charm. Here are a few of my pictures from my visit to Downtown this weekend. I have a thing for old bricks and windows so you’ll see a lot of that but I tried to capture the colors and sights that I find so different from what I see in other parts of the city. I will continue to post more in Downtown as I am fascinated with its history and all the changes that are being made. You can visit my first post on Downtown for some shots of the Financial District and Pershing Square.

The Jewelry District

Dressmakers dolls in the window

Walking on the 6th Street Bridge

On the Roof

21 Sunday Apr 2013

Posted by Lisa in Places in the City

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One of my favorite things about living in a city are all the rooftop views. Whenever I travel somewhere new my first desire is to get to the nearest lookout point so I can take it all in. I wasn’t aware of this fact until, while traveling with a friend, it was pointed out to me. After arriving in Florence, Italy late one day, I insisted on getting to a look-out point. It was getting dark but it had to be done. A little resistant to such a venture at sundown, my friend commented on my need to get an overview of each place we visited. She’s right, I thought, I need to see the view. Perhaps it’s the Capricorn in me; a goat who needs to climb to the top of the mountain.

When I was a teenager I would climb on the roof of our house just to get away from it all and look out over the fields behind our fence. There were two fields; a softball field and a eucalyptus grove. One open and free, the other tangled and mysterious. So many emotions were felt looking out on those two fields. My mother constantly yelled at me to get off the roof but I never listened. I needed the view. I think it was my way of trying to lift myself out of what was troubling me or find a way of distancing in order to get clarity. Sometimes getting a different perspective has a way of giving me an answer that I can’t see from where I usually stand.

Some rooftop views here in L.A…

Downtown Los Angeles

The view from Perch

City in the Trees

24 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Lisa in Nature in the City, Places in the City

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A few times a week I cross the tracks into a gorgeous multi-million dollar neighborhood called Cheviot Hills. Leaving my apartment, I walk north under a freeway overpass, up a hill and into a small piece of paradise. Lush with trees, flower gardens, green lawns and peaceful fountains, it provides instant refreshment. It is always quiet and the birds are delightfully louder here; I am usually one of the few people walking around. Occasionally I see children playing on a front lawn or smell BBQ coming from a backyard but usually I feel like I have it all to myself. Just me and the birds. The houses are beautiful and I never get tired of looking at them as I walk. They vary in style; there are white American Colonial homes with stately columns and bright red doors. There are large, brown and white Tudor homes with tiny stained glass windows in odd places. There are bright-colored Spanish homes with tiled roofs and playful steps to each door. There are clean modern homes with large windows and ambiguous sculptures. There are English cottage homes surrounded by wild and magical gardens. Simply, this neighborhood is a feast for the eyes.

Aside from the lovely homes, the part of the walk that I look forward to most is the view of the cityscape rising above the trees at the gulf course which sits at the heart of this neighborhood. Like the part of a song that gets you every time, this is always the moment I savor. There is something particularly moving about seeing the buildings of Century City rise above the forest of trees at the Rancho Park golf course. It’s as though the city has found itself lost in time at the center of an ancient forest. The juxtaposition of the natural and modern worlds create a particular magic for me. These views are especially divine in the late afternoon. The pink and golden light of a Los Angeles sunset creates a soothing balm over a city that is otherwise anything but. I’m convinced that if not for the afternoon glow that overtakes the city each day, many of us would not still be here. It’s like a siren sweetly singing, whispering promises in your ear. Promises of possibility, fortune and fame. No matter how tough your day was, this pink golden light has a way of washing it all away and restoring hope. It’s either helping you or swindling you; it’s hard to tell.

Regardless, I am grateful for the proximity to such a lovely neighborhood. If a spell has been cast, it has lifted me for a moment beyond my worries and concerns and opened a window of new thoughts and inspiration. As I head back down the hill, under the freeway overpass and back into the urban sprawl below, in some small way, I am made new.

Palms

17 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Lisa in In the Neighborhood, Places in the City

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When I first moved to L.A. I did not want to live in Palms. Aside from its central location and proximity to the 10 and 405 freeways, it presents nothing extraordinary. It’s a small neighborhood East of Santa Monica and West of Beverly Hills. It sits on the outskirts of many desirable neighborhoods but fails to be one itself. Unless you live here, there really is no reason to come to Palms. When I moved to L.A. I wanted to live East. I wanted to live near the hipsters and the Bohemians and the artists. I wanted to live in an up-and-coming neighborhood where things were happening. That didn’t happen though. I ended up West and I ended up in Palms, a neighborhood that I deemed very un-romantic, and as far as I could tell was not up-and-coming.

I am not going to tell you how over the last three years I’ve discovered how romantic Palms is, or how it has surprisingly stolen my heart. Palms is still what it is, and that’s OK. I do enjoy many things about this neighborhood though and because of the time I’ve spent here it will go down as a very important place in my life. Like anything that you spend time with, and that is good to you, affection grows.

The first few weeks here in Palms I set out on my walks to explore the neighborhood. I took in the sights and sounds: Apartment buildings and more apartment buildings, trees, kids playing basketball in the park, people walking their dogs, restaurants, a laundry mat, shops and convenient stores. A very typical neighborhood. A few things though that are not so typical are the French high school across the street and the Muslim cultural center directly behind my apartment. I like to think these two things give my neighborhood an “international” feel. I know, it’s starting to sound romantic. I can’t help it – that’s what I do. To take it down a notch I will mention the huge storage facility across the street next to the school. This is actually very comforting to me. It’s nice knowing that if I have to store my belongings in an emergency it will be easy to get my stuff over there.

For me, one of the best things about Palms is the block of shops and restaurants near the intersection of National Blvd. and Motor Ave. I like to think of this as our village square. There is an Asian import market which doubles as a cafe where they’ve recently installed a big screen TV and free wireless. I spend many hot summer afternoons there, drinking mango smoothies to escape my stuffy apartment. There is also a delicious Indonesian restaurant that serves a dish called Nasi Bunkus that I am completely addicted to. When I think about moving my first thought is always, “oh no, what about Nasi Bunkus?” In this plaza there is also National Nails where I get my nails done, a dry cleaners where I get my cleaning done and a bar called Boardwalk 11 that is known for its karaoke night. Across from this plaza is a vegan restaurant, a Mexican restaurant and a great pizza place called Mamma’s. I would also regret not mentioning Palms Market down the street that serves perfect homemade guacamole, refried beans, and pico de gallo in their deli. Aside from the many food options there is also an antique store, a painting studio, a computer repair shop, a car repair/ body shop and a strange looking spa boasting something called the “Elizabeth Taylor Aquatic Center.” I am directly around the corner from all of this and as such the little square has become very dear to me. If for some reason the rest of L.A. disappeared or became unavailable, I would have everything I need right here.

Compared to other neighborhoods in L.A. Palms may be unexceptional but the longer I stay the more good continues to find it’s way here. We recently welcomed a gastro pub and a farmers market. I know, it sounds hip, but somehow it’s not and I actually kind of like that. The weekends are very quiet here as there are not a lot of reasons to come to Palms. I suppose if anything makes it extraordinary, it is this: it quietly remains itself amidst a city where so many people and places are trying to “be something.” It’s humble in its offerings and it seems comfortable with who it is. I’ve always dreamed of living in a small country village were life is quiet, convenient and charmingly simple. Strange that I would find myself in one of the only neighborhoods in L.A. that I can say that about. As much as I wanted to be in an area where things were supposedly “happening” I’m glad I ended up here. I know I said I wouldn’t get romantic but I guess I did. Palms, for everything that it is and everything that it isn’t, is home.

I didn’t mention Hu’s because I’ve never been there… and I probably never will.

The Irish Times Pub

The Indonesian restaurant and the nail salon

Nasi Bunkus – it comes wrapped in a banana leaf

“Elizabeth Taylor’s Aquatic Center”

From Melrose with Love

10 Sunday Mar 2013

Posted by Lisa in People in the City, Places in the City

≈ 1 Comment

For many years now I have been lamenting the dying art of postcard writing. Think about it, when was the last time you sent a postcard? Or received one for that matter? If you travel often then perhaps you still partake in this global ritual. Like smiling, it’s another thing we all seem to agree upon. Which is why it saddens me to see it happening less and less. The hand written letter is, for the most part, a thing of the past. No more letters written in pink, watermelon scented pens and covered with sparkly unicorn stickers from your cousin who lives far away. No more letters from your boyfriend while on his family summer vacation. No more sending letters to your boyfriend splashed with some of your perfume (yes, I did that). Now we have blogs or use Facebook to communicate our comings and goings. I appreciate technology but there is something special about holding a hand written letter or postcard in your hand. I think about the miles it has come, the hands it has passed through, the many languages it has heard and the simple fact that this small little piece of paper made it all the way around the world and ended up in the right place. Amazing.

Years ago it was fashionable to have a postcard book to keep all of your postcards in. Much like a photo album. Every time someone sent you a card you would put it in your book. I, of course, have one of these. If you send me a postcard I will save it forever and ever. My grandchildren will be able to look though my postcards and piece together life during my time with sentences like, “It’s absolutely amazing here!” and “All we’ve eaten is bread and pasta.” I hope they enjoy the legacy I am leaving for them.

Not everyone’s postcard collection stays within the family however. Often times these collections get sold at estate sales or simply given away to be sold at flea markets to vintage junkies such as myself. The best postcard collection I have come across is at the Melrose Flea market at the corner of Melrose and Fairfax every Sunday. Mark, the owner of this collection, not only sells old postcards but has an incredible collection of photographs. For this he has lovingly become known as “the found photo guy of Melrose.” Mark has amassed quite an inventory over his seventeen years of selling. When I first stumbled upon his stall I was with my sister and we thought, “oh how neat, old photos, lets stop for a minute and look.” An hour later we were both exhausted from thoroughly mining the overflowing bins. Digging through the photos and postcards is oddly addicting. Like gambling, the minute you hit the jackpot with an incredible handwritten postcard sent all the way from India in 1902, you have to keep digging for more. I always have to drag myself away or remember to breathe before I go faint. The best postcards I have were found here, and it was well worth the dig.

Mark purposely leaves the cards and photos in unorganized piles, inviting one to partake in the enjoyable treasure hunting ritual. I can imagine that filing and categorizing everything would be a daunting task. Marks says he prefers the haphazard aesthetic of the cards and I would have to agree. I have been to other card sellers who have everything nicely wrapped and labeled and it’s not as fun. At Mark’s stall you get to feel like you found the hidden gem first. His stall is very popular and he caters to a variety of buyers; artists looking for mixed media material, interior decorators looking for something unique for a client, collectors, crafters, tourists and the rest of us simply looking for a bit of scavenging fun.

Mark recently told me a story of a man who was looking through his bins and came across a photo of himself. It was a photo taken of another person but this man saw himself walking past in the background. What are the odds that this man would find this picture amongst all the others and then notice himself in the backdrop of another person’s photo? How often do any of us show up in other people’s photo albums? I love hearing stories like this. It highlights what I believe to be at the heart of the fascination with these photos and postcards. Aside from their aesthetic appeal, they invoke our interconnectedness and fascination with each other. A genuine curiosity with other people and their stories. Despite the fact that we may not write letters or pick up the phone as much today, the need to connect and know each other remains. The desire to find yourself in someone else’s story, to relate, to share, to communicate, to share our worlds with each other is the essence of who we are. I may not know the people in the photos and post cards that I’ve bought from Mark’s shop but I love them for the stories they have all lived, and the stories I imagined they have lived, and I like knowing that in some small way it has not been lost.

Below are some of my favorite finds and pictures from Mark’s stall at The Melrose Trading Post.

Buckingham Palace Guards

Two lovers

The original Mad Men

September, 1946

Tintern Abbey, 1902

Roma

Bombay India, 1910

Mark with his collection

Los Angeles

Lake Hollywood

09 Saturday Mar 2013

Posted by Lisa in Nature in the City, Places in the City

≈ 4 Comments

I am always surprised when I meet people living in Los Angeles who have not been to the Hollywood Reservoir. Not only have they not been, most of them have not even heard of it. When I heard there was a lake under the Hollywood sign, I got out there as fast as I could. Primarily because it seemed impossible; how could there be a lake under the Hollywood sign? When you look up at the hills it doesn’t look like it could possibly fit there, but it does, there is indeed a lake under the Hollywood sign. There is also a very convenient paved walking path and plenty of parking which is always an added bonus. I have been out here a number of times now and I am always amazed at how quiet it is. Unlike the hike at Runyon Canyon (which is a crowded spectacle akin to the Walk of Stars itself) the reservoir is much less trafficked. Just today I finally realized why it’s so quiet; there are no dogs allowed. I would imagine this deters most people, making it a surprising nature retreat in the heart of the city.

The reservoir is held by the Mulholland Dam which was built in 1924. There is something very noir about walking on the dam. The deco architecture invokes an earlier L.A. It’s Chinatown meets L.A. Confidential. You just know some scandalous things have happened out there. Today there is a towering fence around the perimeter to keep out any trouble makers.

Surrounding the dam are gorgeous upscale homes. I spend most of my walk deciding how I would decorate the white, mid-century modern home perched quietly on the hillside. It’s tough because I’m not much for modern décor but I love all of those wall to wall windows. I can’t see the house very well from the path below but I can see just enough to get a good fantasy going. The first time I passed it I heard the gentle sound of wind chimes floating down the hillside. It was one of those magical moments that I try to re-capture every time I’m there. I stand below the house, looking up at the tall palms swaying in the breeze while the chimes ting softly. It’s become my little reservoir ritual. I stand there, trying to be as peaceful and Zen-like as possible and then I start imagining myself on a lounge chair at the pool having those chimes all to myself, all day long.

I often forget how important being in nature is; hearing her soothing sounds and smelling the many scents. The recent rain brought everything to life; the scent of fresh pine was in the air and the sound of trickling water and croaking frogs accompanied me while I walked. I saw squirrels, lizards, hawks, a deer and I even heard an owl. Despite being just above Hollywood, the city disappears quickly in a place like this

Old Town Pasadena

12 Monday Nov 2012

Posted by Lisa in Places in the City

≈ 1 Comment

Beautiful, clear, chilly November day in old town Pasadena. Gorgeous architecture, old buildings and shopping wonders. I couldn’t help but pull out my camera. I was totally enchanted and didn’t want to go home; it was such a retreat from the frenzy of the city.

The entrance to the old Public Library

Adorable old brick buildings

The historic Castle Green

Stats of Pasadena – the most insane Christmas store I’ve ever seen.

Downtown

27 Sunday May 2012

Posted by Lisa in Downtown, Places in the City

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“There is no solitude in the world like that of the big city.” – Kathleen Norris 1931

You can find yourself in the city surrounded by millions, utterly alone. And yet, a moment later you can find yourself at one with all the world; connected to the thrilling pulse of life, connected to everything and everyone. The solitude and anonymity that the city offers can be both liberating and maddening.

Downtown Los Angeles one afternoon I was struck by the enormity of the buildings. Their glass facades gleaning and glistening in the sunlight. They seemed to undulate in the sky as I looked up at them. I imagined myself at the bottom of the ocean, looking up at the towering columns of kelp, illuminated by the bright blue ocean all around. These buildings make you feel small and yet they are oddly comforting; so large and silent, almost Zen like, watching and protecting like gods. There is something ancient about them as they silently and peacefully peer down at the madness below. Amidst the constantly changing street scene they are stable, solid and enduring. A calm washes over me as I gaze up. I try to imagine what they will look like two thousand years from now. Will travelers come from far and wide to speculate about what we did here? What were these giant monuments used for? Why were they built? Will they walk slowly around the crumbling frames, snapping photos, the way we walk around Stonehenge or the Colosseum? Or perhaps they will come with a small chisel as the Romantics did in the 18th century to break off a little piece of the crumbling shrine to take home with them. Will they know who we were and what these buildings were built for or will they imagine them to be a part of some ancient time telling system or grand burial site?

These are some of my photos from this Spring afternoon Downtown.